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At the Edge of West New York, Small-Town Life Persists

A day trip to Lockport and Olcott brings us back to the simple things.

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Tucson with a Toddler: An Exercise in Not Overthinking It

Tucson's children's amenities are as ruggedly punk as the city itself.

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Bisbee, AZ: Great for Quirky Boomers, Less So for Toddlers

If your idea of a mountain hike involves pushing a stroller up and down hills, Bisbee is for you.

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Wintertime Bulgaria is So Much More Than Just Ski Resorts

With natural hot springs, steamy stews and tranquil monasteries, Bulgaria is a winter wonderland—even if most tourists don't realize it.

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Getting into Italy’s Germanic Christmas Spirit

In the summertime, northern Italy blooms with green grapes and cross-country cyclists. But in the winter, the region's Germanic spirit comes alive.

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The Worst Greyhound Bus I Ever Took

"I am never coming back to the border," our bus driver muttered. "This is horrible."

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Guadalupe, A Forgotten Town in Phoenix

It’s not a place frequented by tourists—or even locals—but Guadalupe stands among the most fascinating, diverse and haunted towns in Arizona.

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Not a Place for Nervous People

A three-day trip into the La Libertad, a tiny village surrounded by the treacherous Peruvian Amazon.

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On Roosevelt Row, the New Walkable Residence of Phoenix, Arizona

EAST ROOSEVELT STREET is haunted by its past. Walk across the erstwhile drug-addled neighbourhood in downtown Phoenix, just a few blocks south of the I-10 highway and the postmodern central library,...

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Camaná & Mollendo: A Tale of Two Eerie Peruvian Beaches

THERE ARE TWO beach towns within a three-hour drive from Arequipa: Mollendo and Camaná. Each costs between 10 and 15 soles to reach, and there are loads of minibuses and regular buses that leave every...

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In Photos: Reasons to Love Northern Chile

IF YOU’RE BACKPACKING through South America, you’ll likely pass through Northern Chile—after all, the northernmost city, Arica, marks the only route to Peru. But it would be a mistake to truck through...

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Searching for the Amazonian Jews of Peru

THE BIGGEST PROBLEM facing the only synagogue in the Amazonian city of Iquitos, Peru, is that nobody knows where it is. Hotel concierges won’t know what you’re talking about; tell a moto-taxi driver to...

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An Independent Traveller’s Anecdotal Guide to Trekking Colca Canyon, in 11...

1. Appreciate silence.  Near the end of our six-hour bus ride from Arequipa to Cabanaconde, three awful, young French people boarded the bus, standing near our seats. The loudest wore a backwards cap...

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In Defence of Malaysia: Don’t Let MH370 Be Your Last Impression

MALAYSIA’S BEEN BESMIRCHED in the media lately, and for pretty unfortunate reasons. First the shocking vanish itself of Malaysia Airlines flight MH370; then the rumours about Iranian terrorists, stolen...

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How I Spent $7,634 to Travel the World in Four Months

FINALLY GOT AROUND to calculating my trip costs this weekend. I may have discovered a secret fetish for spreadsheets. Before I left Korea, I found it useful to research the practical costs of...

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The Secret Life of Walter Mitty is Travel Propaganda at Its Worst

IT ISN’T RIGHT TO SAY Ben Stiller has created a love letter to ambitious travellers everywhere with The Secret Life of Walter Mitty, though he obviously tried very hard to do that. The...

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I’m Writing a Book

BASED ON A FEW REQUESTS and the desire to spend these next few months quasi-usefully, I’ve decided to write and self-publish a travel book based on this four-month round-the-world trip. It won’t be...

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Notes From the End of the World

“I BETTER TAKE MY PHONE,” the redheaded farm boy said. “In case we get stuck out there, to call someone to pull us out.” He had done this before. He searchingly patted the pants he'd hung up in the...

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The Many Cons and Mighty Pros of Iceland in December

THE FIRST THING TO GIVE UP in Iceland's December is the sun, and with it the loss of humanity's very conception of time itself. Darkness shrouds the jagged island for 20 hours a day; the sun peeks out...

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A Brief Guide to Some of London’s Lesser-Seen Museums

LONDON IS ONE OF the great museum capitals of the world, and whereas the Tate Modern and National Gallery may be obvious choices, there is a surfeit more whose aim is so peculiarly niche that I'm a...

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